The dangers of “resistant” fashion

Wrinkle-resistant, stain-resistant, water-resistant…safety resistant?

Let’s start at the finish

Upgrade…such a positive word, isn’t it? We are constantly upgrading our phones, laptops, workout routines — you name it, we will look for a way to upgrade it. It’s no wonder then that we took our everyday clothing and upgraded it to be wrinkle resistant for our business meetings, odor and sweat resistant for our workouts, and stain resistant to survive even the messiest of dinners. These features are attractive, they make our options better. Yet, have we ever stopped to question how this clothing was enhanced? And at what cost?

Even the finest of prints on clothing tags will not answer this question. For this, we need to look deeper than fast fashion brands are willing to disclose, past the “89% polyester” label. It is not the fabrics to which we should look, it is at the finishing touches used in the processing of the fabric. Read on for the health and environmental implications associated with the toxins used to make our clothing “resistant” to everyday life.

Water and Stain-resistant

PFAs and PFCs (per-and polyfluoroalkyl substances and perfluorochemicals, respectively) are known as “forever chemicals” because they never break down in nature and will remain present in the human body. Once they enter the environment, they cannot be removed (hence the “forever” part).

This chemical treatment is used to process fibers to be water and stain resistant. Therefore, even if a natural fabric was used, once these chemicals are added the fabric will no longer be able to decompose and will sit in a landfill long after its owner’s wear.

Beyond the environmental impacts of forever chemicals, studies have shown that PFAs may interfere with the body’s natural hormones, reduce immune responses (including reduced response to vaccines!), increase risk of prostate, kidney, and testicular cancers (1), disrupt lipid regulation leading to an increase in cholesterol levels (2), have negative reproductive effects such as decreased fertility, and cause developmental effects or delays in children (1).

Although sweat-proof workout gear is enticing, introducing our body to chemicals that will absorb, bio-accumulate (build up in bloodstream), and lead to chronic health conditions is not worth the risk.

Instead, swap your waterproof wear with all-natural, breathable fabrics (such as cotton and linen) and your stain-proof pieces with naturally stain resistant fabrics (such as wool).

Wrinkle-resistant

Formaldehyde is used to make clothing wrinkle resistant (beware, it is also responsible for that ‘new’ clothing smell). Unfortunately, this chemical choice is an incredibly toxic carcinogen (3). It has direct respiratory effects when inhaled (which can potentially impact garment workers, but that is a topic for another day) and can cause dermatitis when it comes into contact with the skin (4).

“While inhaling the chemical has been linked to asthma, nausea, and even cancer, wearing clothes with formaldehyde is more commonly associated with dermatitis...Symptoms of dermatitis include rashes, blisters, and itchy, dry skin.” (4)

Instead of choosing wrinkle-resistant clothing, wear fibers that are naturally resistant to wrinkling, including wool, cashmere, rayon and lyocell.

Shrink-resistant

Ammonia is the main chemical used to make clothing shrink resistant (although formaldehyde can also be used, see above for the negative effects associated with that). Ammonia is also often found in laundry detergent for stain removal. In small doses, the body metabolizes ammonia to maintain an acid-base balance in your kidneys. However, too much exposure can cause liver or kidney damage, be absorbed into our lungs, and burn the eyes, nose, throat, or skin. Therefore, if you wear shrink-resistant clothing often or use ammonia-based laundry detergent, you may increase your risk to these adverse health effects.

Instead, maintain proper care of your clothing based on the fabric it is made out of to reduce risk of shrinkage (i.e., wash on a delicate cycle, in cold water and hang dry).

Bacteria-resistant (Antibacterial)

When brands claim their clothing is “antibacterial” be aware that the chemicals used to make the fabric resistant to bacteria may include triclosan, which has been linked to liver and inhalation toxicity, or nanoparticle silver, which gives the clothing “anti-odor” properties and has been linked to hormone disruption and DNA damage. In addition, phthalates are commonly used in workout gear with prints or dyes, which have been linked to cancers, adult obesity, and hormone disruptions such as reduced testosterone in both men and women (5).

Are antibacterial and odor-resistant properties essential when they come with such immensely negative repercussions? Instead, wear fabrics that are naturally antibacterial, such as linen, merino wool, and hemp.

All-natural alternatives

Researching every article of clothing before buying may not be of interest to you, and is many times not possible as most brands do not disclose their textile processes and finishes. Luckily, there are global standards that ensure the above toxins are not found in the clothing you buy. Look for GOTS, BlueSign, and OEKO-TEX certifications when shopping, as these stamps of approval confirm the brand did not use harmful toxins in the development of their pieces (Bonus! These certifications also confirm that the brands offer fair wages and working practices for their employees, do not harm the environment with their clothing production, and many other favorable items).

Another simple rule of thumb is to always wash your clothing before wear (no matter if it has a “resistant” claim), as this will remove a degree of the topical toxins so they are not absorbed upon wear. Lastly, one critical item to note is that buying all-natural fabrics is not a guaranteed way to avoid the aforementioned toxins. Look for “organic”, as well as the above certifications to be safe and resist the “resistant”!

Brands

Unsure where to begin? Brands like ASKET, Mate the Label, Knickey and Riley Studio design collections with organic, all-natural fabrics free from toxins so you can protect your health and the environment, all while looking your best.

References

1. Environmental Protection Agency. (n.d.). Our Current Understanding of the Human Health and Environmental Risks of PFAS. EPA. Retrieved January 24, 2022, from https://www.epa.gov/pfas/our-current-understanding-human-health-and-environmental-risks-pfas
2. Lin, P.-I. D., Cardenas, A., Hauser, R., Gold, D. R., Kleinman, K. P., Hivert, M.-F., Fleisch, A. F., Calafat, A. M., Webster, T. F., Horton, E. S., & Oken, E. (2019, May 28). Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances and blood lipid levels in pre-diabetic adults-longitudinal analysis of the Diabetes Prevention Program Outcomes Study. Environment International. Retrieved January 24, 2022, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0160412019305094
3. Formaldehyde and cancer risk. National Cancer Institute. (n.d.). Retrieved January 23, 2022, from https://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/substances/formaldehyde/formaldehyde-fact-sheet#how-is-the-general-population-exposed-to-formaldehyde
4. Bendix, A. (2019, July 11). 7 toxic chemicals hiding in your waterproof, stain-resistant, and wrinkle-free clothes. Business Insider. Retrieved January 23, 2022, from https://www.businessinsider.com/toxic-chemicals-in-clothes-cancer-2019-7#the-chemical-smell-of-new-clothing-could-signal-the-presence-of-formaldehyde-4
5. Andrea Plell Andrea Plell is a freelance writer, Plell, A., Andrea Plell is a freelance writer, says:, A., 10, A. P. says: M., says:, A. P., says:, B. A., says:, D. R. J. L. J., says:, D., says:, L., 9, A. P. says: M., says:, M., says:, S., says:, C., says:, K., 7, C. G. says: M., says:, C. G., & *, N. (2020, April 2). There are hidden chemicals in our clothing. Remake. Retrieved January 26, 2022, from https://remake.world/stories/news/there-are-hidden-chemicals-in-our-clothing/